Clouded View at The Dragon
04 Aug 2009 by Jasmine Abdullah, New Straits Times (Malaysia)


It’s not diving season but JASMINE ABDULLAH does not allow warnings of poor visibility stop her from taking the plunge at Pulau Tioman’s Marine Park Wrecks, a cluster of seven sunken Thai fishing boats.

THE propeller plane dips suddenly and I am greeted by the amazing view of golden sandy beaches surrounded by dark turquoise with splashes of aquamarine.

I recall the legend of the dragon princess who decided to take the form of an island and as I gaze down, Pulau Tioman certainly does look like a slumbering dragon.

Landing in Tekek, it takes us just five minutes to reach Berjaya Tioman Beach, Golf and Spa resort. Check-in is quick and as soon as we put our luggage into our rooms, we are off to the Dive Centre.

Tioman Dive Sites

Though we are cautioned that visibility is poor as coral spawning season has started, this does not dampen our enthusiasm. We decide to dive in Marine Park Wrecks, a cluster of seven sunken Thai fishing boats.

True enough, visibility is at a disappointing three metres and two fin strokes effectively allow one to disappear from view. However, we are rewarded by the sight of a giant puffer fish with an odd gaping crooked mouth, as well as a curious porcupine puffer. Colourful star fish hug the exterior hulls of the wrecks while sea urchins nestle in hollows.

I see a pretty yellow box fish but it disappears before I can photograph it, while a huge school of yellow-tail barracuda flashes past.

The next morning, we dive off Pulau Chebeh. Visibility hovers at five metres and we are greeted by beautiful soft and hard corals dotted with large Christmas tree worms, amidst stunning boulder formations. It is a wonderfully relaxing dive through the garden of colourful giant gorgonian sea fans and I spot a tiny nudibranch covered with protrusions during a swim through.

As Chebeh is one of the few spots where manta rays can be sighted, I find myself turning around constantly, hoping to catch a glimpse of these fantastic creatures. Instead, I am rewarded with a scorpion fish that is two feet long and not at all perturbed by my ogling!

Genting Bay dive site is equally gorgeous with huge rocks covered with thriving corals and tiny nudibranch. I find a shy lion fish with stunning red fins and spines hiding in some corals. Later, while dodging sea fans, I come face to face with a moray eel peeping out from his home. Despite its normally ferocious appearance, this one throws me a friendly nod!

After lunch, we plunge into Malang Rock site. It is nudibranch galore in this shallow dive site – they can be seen on the face of the huge volcanic rocks as well as on the carpet of hard corals paving the seabed. We see large green and red nudibranch in pairs and plump white ones clinging tenaciously to staghorn corals. I try and tempt a hermit crab out of his shell but finally give up to pursue a boxer shrimp and disturb the companionable resident moray eel.

Despite having four good dives, it is the next day’s Sawadee site that steals the show. At 32m deep, a scorpion fish hides on the murky seabed. I scour the Sawadee wreck and discover various types of puffer fish. A map puffer, with its trademark reticulated dark line patterns radiating from its eyes, clumsily follows me as I chase after a porcupine fish. There are rarely seen nudibranch, blacklined file fish and yellowback fusilier in large schools milling around the wreck, and even a pair of longfin banner fish flapping its dorsal fin extensions about. And at our five-metre stop, playful bat fish come to nudge us.

Spacious Accommodation

I also enjoy my stay at Berjaya Tioman Beach, Golf & Spa Resort. My deluxe room is spacious and clean, with a private balcony overlooking the beach. The room has all the requisite four-star resort amenities and even a large, flat screen television.

Diving makes me ravenous. Luckily the Sri Nelayan coffeehouse offers a large buffet spread. Its a la carte menu is tempting and I especially like its sandwiches and burgers. There is, however, a shortage of staff and I notice waiters struggling to replenish the buffet at meal-times. Also, the public toilets are a mess, so do avoid them at peak hours.

Besides Sri Nelayan, there is a Chinese restaurant, Fortune Court, and a new, fine dining Thai restaurant, Pahn Thai. Other facilities include the Ayura Spa and an 18-hole international golf course with spectacular scenery. In the evenings, the Beach Bar has live entertainment for those looking to party the night away.

Best Times To Dive

Tioman Siland has amazing dive sites. Sure, visibility is not fantastic but I’ve not come in the best months for diving, which are from March to May and in October and early November.

So if you do dive at Pulau Tioman during these months, rest assured the Dragon Lady will reward you handsomely.

As for the dive centre, the staff is helpful and Berjaya uses big, comfortable boats to get to dive sites that are further away.

How To Get There

Berjaya Air flies direct to Tioman Island and the flight takes one hour. An adult return ticket is RM428 + RM28 (taxes) and a child return ticket is RM214 + RM28 (taxes) per person.

Alternatively, you can take a four-hour drive from Kuala Lumpur to Tanjung Gemok or Mersing and take a 90-minute ferry (return rate – RM70) to Tioman Island.

Where To Stay

A twin sharing Deluxe Chalet in Berjaya Tioman Beach, Golf & Spa Resort is RM750 per room (inclusive of 10 per cent service charge).

Different stay packages available. For details, call 03-2141 0088, 03-2145 4107, 1-800-88 3236 (Malaysia toll-free). Email : bhr@hr.berjaya.com.my or visit www.berjayahotels-resorts.com

Diving Info

One boat dive is RM 98, two boat dives RM182, three boat dives RM265 (without equipment).

Snorkeling, Discovery Scuba Diving and Padi courses are available, as well as special Padi programmes for kids.

Call the resort for more information.

 

Courtesy from New Straits Times Online